Brow lamination is a relatively safe cosmetic procedure when performed correctly, but it does involve chemicals that require respect and proper handling. The solutions used to restructure your brow hairs are designed to break down protein bonds—and while that's exactly what we want for reshaping purposes, it also means these products can cause damage if misused. This guide covers everything you need to know to laminate safely at home.
Understanding the Chemicals Involved
Most brow lamination kits contain solutions based on either thioglycolate or cysteamine. Thioglycolate, the same active ingredient found in traditional hair perms, has been used in the beauty industry for decades. It works by breaking the disulfide bonds in keratin, allowing hair to be reshaped. Cysteamine is a newer alternative that's generally considered gentler, though it can still cause reactions in sensitive individuals.
The neutralising solution typically contains hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate, which reforms the bonds in their new position. While these chemicals are generally safe when used as directed, they can cause irritation, burns, or allergic reactions if applied incorrectly or left on too long.
Chemical Safety Basics
- Never apply lifting solution to broken or irritated skin
- Keep all solutions away from your eyes
- Always follow the manufacturer's recommended timing
- Wash hands thoroughly after handling solutions
- Store products in a cool, dry place away from children
The Non-Negotiable Patch Test
A patch test is the single most important safety step you can take before any chemical treatment. Even if you've used a product before, formulations can change between batches, and your skin's sensitivity can fluctuate based on factors like hormonal changes, stress, or medication use.
To perform a proper patch test, apply a small amount of the lifting solution to the skin behind your ear or on the inner bend of your elbow. These areas are sensitive enough to show a reaction but discreet enough to hide any redness. Leave the solution on for the same duration you would during the actual treatment, then rinse thoroughly.
Wait a full 24 to 48 hours before assessing the results. Delayed reactions are common with chemical sensitisers, so even if your skin looks fine immediately after rinsing, a reaction could still develop. Look for redness, itching, swelling, hives, or any unusual sensation. If you notice any of these signs, do not proceed with the treatment.
When to Re-Test
You should conduct a new patch test whenever you switch to a different brand or formula, if you haven't laminated in more than three months, after starting new medications (especially retinoids or antibiotics), and if your skin has become more sensitive due to conditions like eczema or rosacea.
Timing: The Fine Line Between Perfect and Problematic
Overprocessing is the most common cause of brow lamination damage, and it nearly always comes down to leaving the solutions on too long. The manufacturers' recommended times are a starting point, not a minimum. Your actual processing time depends on your hair's thickness, porosity, and condition.
Timing Guidelines by Hair Type
- Fine, light, or previously processed hair: Start at 5-6 minutes for lifting, 4-5 minutes for neutralising
- Medium, virgin hair: Start at 7-9 minutes for lifting, 6-7 minutes for neutralising
- Thick, coarse, resistant hair: Start at 10-12 minutes for lifting, 8-9 minutes for neutralising
- First time with a new product: Always err on the side of less time
Always set a timer—and set it for one to two minutes less than your target time. This gives you a buffer to check the progress and extend if needed. You can always add more time if the solution hasn't fully processed, but you cannot undo overprocessing once it's happened.
Recognising Warning Signs During Treatment
While some mild tingling or warmth during treatment is normal, especially with thioglycolate-based products, certain sensations indicate you should remove the solution immediately.
Stop the treatment and rinse thoroughly if you experience burning rather than tingling, if the sensation becomes increasingly uncomfortable rather than stabilising, if you notice any swelling around the brow area, if your eyes begin to water excessively or feel irritated, or if the skin under your brows turns noticeably red.
If you've had to stop a treatment early due to a reaction, wait at least two weeks before attempting to laminate again, and consider switching to a gentler formula. Repeated reactions to the same product should be taken as a sign that product isn't suitable for your skin chemistry.
Protecting Your Eyes
Your eyes are remarkably close to your brows, and the chemicals in lamination solutions can cause serious damage to eye tissue. While the products are designed not to drip, accidents happen, and a single slip of a brush can send solution directly into your eye.
Eye Safety Measures
- Work in a well-lit area where you can clearly see what you're doing
- Keep cotton pads dampened with clean water nearby for quick cleanup
- Apply solutions in thin, controlled layers rather than saturating the brows
- Never rush—speed leads to sloppiness
- Consider working on one brow at a time if you're new to the process
If solution does get into your eye, immediately flush with cool, clean water for at least 15 minutes. Don't rub your eye, as this can spread the chemical. If irritation persists after flushing, seek medical attention and bring the product packaging so healthcare providers know exactly what chemicals were involved.
Frequency and Recovery Time
Even when performed perfectly, brow lamination is a chemical process that places stress on your hair. Each treatment weakens the protein structure slightly, and your brows need time between sessions to recover and rebuild.
For most people, laminating every six to eight weeks strikes the right balance between maintaining results and allowing adequate recovery. If your brows feel dry, brittle, or show signs of damage, extend this interval. Some people with fine or previously damaged brows may need to wait 10 to 12 weeks between treatments.
Between treatments, focus on nourishing your brows with keratin-enriched serums, castor oil, or dedicated brow conditioners. Healthy, well-moisturised brows will process more evenly and be more resistant to damage during your next lamination. For more on maintaining brow health, see our aftercare guide.
When to Skip the Treatment Entirely
There are situations where brow lamination should be postponed or avoided altogether, regardless of how much you want fluffy, lifted brows. These include active skin conditions like eczema, psoriasis, or dermatitis around the brow area, sunburn or recent sun damage on the forehead, open cuts, wounds, or recently healed scar tissue near your brows, and if you've recently undergone other chemical treatments like brow tinting or lash lifting.
During pregnancy and breastfeeding, the decision to laminate is personal, but many dermatologists recommend caution. While there's no definitive evidence that the chemicals pose risks when used topically and briefly, hormonal changes during pregnancy can make skin more reactive and unpredictable.
Building Safe Habits
The safest brow lamination routine is one built on consistent habits. Always read the instructions for each new product, even if you're experienced—formulations vary, and assumptions lead to mistakes. Keep a lamination journal noting the product used, processing times, and results. This helps you refine your approach and identify if a particular brand or batch causes problems.
Finally, trust your instincts. If something feels wrong during a treatment, stop. If a product smells off or has changed consistency, don't use it. Your brows will recover from a single missed session, but they may take months to recover from a chemical burn or overprocessing incident. Safety isn't about being overly cautious—it's about respecting the process and protecting your long-term brow health.